Tribal on a leash at Dior

John Galliano mesmerizes his audience by capturing tribal influences.

Manganese blue rays started to flash on the forest of metal poles. It was only then that the celebrity packed front-row hushed. Amongs

t them, pop starlets Katy Parry and Lily Allen; actresses Eva Green, Georgina Chapman and Emma Watson; and burlesque diva Dita Von Teese – Galliano would have to work wonders to please all.

And so he did. Models with rouge coloured lips and accentuated cheekbones appeared, parading a multitude of structured python bustiers with cinched waists, suggesting a restrained 1980s comeback. Floaty chiffon knife-pleated and micro-skirts in white or tiered, transparent black enabled bustiers to emerge as wearable outfits and softened gothic elements. With 1950s inspired pants to counteract sheerness, Galliano reflected on previous decades to combine classic with modernity. Deriving from Dior’s infamous ‘New Look’ collection, the ‘bar’ jackets reminded of this period through enhanced hips and soft, sloping shoulders. Updated using less restrained waistlines, introduction of deep v-necklines and added flap pockets; jackets were ready to hit the urban-jungle.

To satisfy expensive tastes, Irina Kulikova opened the show clutching a fan shaped bag, similar to last season’s soft bebe bag, with embroidered monochrome coloured shells. The ‘tribal chic’ leashed out, wearing six-inch sculptured high-heels embodying an African fertility symbol. In addition to providing safe childbirth the 19^th century figure, called Akua'maa, represents youth – a petit touch à la Galliano to exhaust Dior’s Mademoiselles wallets. The ancient African theme continued, with hair crimped and pulled back into chignons or sculptured to resemble a tribal drum and extended eyebrows to look feline and strong.

Back in the future playful daffodil yellow, satsuma orange, delphinium blue, fuchsia and bubblegum pink mini dresses complimented the otherwise earthly colour pallet. The most eccentric look derived from a raspberry pink suede shoulder strap dress with embroidered cowrie shells, achieving a modernised tribal look through its subtle fringing. Although the faux-ivory jewellery looked diminished, reminding of a holiday gift-shop purchase gone wrong, elegant full-length mushroom-grey cocktail eveningwear, made from tulles and chiffon offered sophistication for the grown audience. Choose strapless or halter necks to highlight collarbones or shoulder blades.

Abandoning last season’s sensible tailoring, pleasing aristocratic Dames and the First Lady, John Galliano’s tough but elegant collection wins back Dior’s young, wealthy and influential clientele. Using luxurious and expensive fabrics in these fragile times, verifies Dior’s immunity to the current recession – rejoicing in a healthy 1.54 billion Euro profit for the first half of the year instead.  Yet, Galliano’s creations refrained from their usual grandeur. Actress Milla Jovovich sums it up nicely: “It was restraint for John’s normal style”, she continues, “Still, it was wearable. The look is totally chick of this world”. No wonder Galliano has been head of design for over 11 years.